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16 September 2006

Home Again Home Again Jiggity Jig...

SUNDAY - 10 Sept - "Round Trip"
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More water and sand
Gets everywhere when you're at the beach. All the kids, ours and the rest got wet and sandy again, but had a good time doing it. My kids got a bit burnt... but not as badly as we thought based on looking at them.

Seaside shopping
This guy came up to the beach side of the property with an assistant and some bags of stuff. He started by holding up some dresses in the wind, and so we went to check them out. Sh. Harun bought several things for my family including an African outfit for moby, a dress for Munira, and some other clothing for the girls. I started eyeing the other things he had- leather boxes, specifically, and ended up, after a good while of haggling, getting a couple large boxes and several that were smaller. He gave me a little leather bracelet with a shell in it, and I decided it was my African watch - when you can see it it's daytime and when you can't, it's night. Actually I intend to wear it when I'm in the US to remind me of the family.

Eventually everyone got tidied up, we cleared out our rooms, and then visitors started to arrive for the Sunday thikr. That went on for a while, followed by prayers and food, and then we all left to board the busses- only this time we filled them up with the original group plus the visitors. Traffic was as bad this time, but it was night, and the driver had to make some detours, so it took our bus almost 2 hours to get home. I sat in the back this time, and mercifully was able to get up and out and stretch whenever the bus stopped - otherwise I'd have been miserable. Remember how I said nothing ever goes very fast here? Well, that makes it easy to leave the back door open, and easy to hop on and off when things are stop and go.

We arrived home, gratefully, and (since I'm writing this almost a week later) I can't remember what happened after that. We probably went to bed, with visions of the children's first day of classes the next day.

The Mexican Bus & the Beach

SATURDAY - 9 Sept - "The 'Dreaded Mexican Bus' & the Beach"
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WIRELESS ACCESS
We'd paid $600 cash to get DSL of some sort set up at the school. We didn't really know what to expect or how it would work, but it's important enough to both of our jobs that we wanted it in-house (the cyber center was not at all pricey- about fifty cents an hour) to be able to get on and off at will, and to use the telephony features we'd set up. So Sh. Harun called us in with a bit of fanfare, indicated that he'd pulled some strings to get our "box" over the weekend. So we came in and he held up a d-link wireless ADSL router with a USB wireless key, and a couple adapters, all sealed in the box. The box was in french, and he read it several times out loud, saying something like "High Speed Internet Access" and saying that according to the folks who provided it, all we have to do is plug it in and it will work. Needless to say, I was cynical, but it was forward progress.

So we unwrapped it, plugged it in, jacked in his machine, put in the phone adapter (their original phone lines are a very large vertical plug with contacts on each side- but they seem to have lots of adapters for the normal rj-11 cable. We even got an adsl light. So everything seemed fine, and we put in id and password- but just couldn't get it to go past the final step. The office was closed, so we decided to wait until Monday.

SODIS
I'd done some research in the past about SODIS - which is a method of using sunlight to decontaminate water. Cheap-almost free, and universally applicable. I'd read about it on the BBC years ago, and did extensive research right after Katrina, thinking to print out 1000 handouts of how to use the method to get clean drinking water. In retrospect, it was naive to think the folks that needed the most help would have been helped by it, but I learned a lot in the process- and was eager to try it here. I was frustrated by the cost of bottled water when we were in Morocco - 9 people for 2 months - and had even gone with tap water myself - and didn't want to think about the cost of a year of bottled water here- not to mention all the other precautions, like not using ice (since it's made from tap water) and having to either give water to everyone at the table, or segregate drinking in groups- which just seems like a big headache.

So using a heavy black plastic trash bag that Elizabeth brought as a backdrop/heat sink, we'd put some bottles on it on the roof patio in the sun. The water got very hot- not enough to burn, but hotter than a hot tub (so what's that, between 110 and 200 F?). It actually tasted pretty good, so initial results are promising. We'll continue with the experimentation.

BOARDING the BUS
In the afternoon, we finally all got it together to head to the beach. The trip had been much anticipated, and had we arrived here on time, we'd have spent a week there. As it was, it was only going to be a day. So about 5pm we all went outside to find one of these diesel busses I'd referred to earlier. They are ancient-looking, though probably only about 20 years old. They are mercedes vehicles, but the bodies were either produced domestically, or reworked so many times they might have been. Universally, they are dented, dinged, bashed up, stickered, hung off of, and otherwise beat up. The back doors don't usually latch well, and there is a wooded back running board that the doorman - the guy who helps the driver and is always in the back- hangs off of half the time. All i could think of was a line from Fat Freddy's Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers, "It's the dreaded Mexican Bus!!" when they encounter a bus in mexico loaded fully with people and stacked with animals and other stuff.

We all got on- and mercifully we weren't filling it - since it was basically hire exclusively for our group - my family, the Sheikh and a few of his folks, and the other kids from the school. The drive took a good while - proabably an hour and a half to cover 35 miles- but so it goes here. I've seen a lot of places where they work on cars and trucks- often sitting in the dirt and never in a "proper" garage - and wondered how they do things like balancing and alignment. I've realized that the roads are so bad - EVERYWHERE, that you'll never go fast enough where balance matters. I think in the entire time we've been here we might have made it to 40mph.

Driving thru the country/city is always an experience - an assault on the senses of sight and sound and smell. There are boys and men selling everything to the drivers and passengers, congested in an unweildy compromise of people and vehicles and semblances of lanes. I sat in the front seat, which was collapsing and because of that surprisingly comfortable (like a little butt-hammock) and Noura sat next to me. Even as we approached the beach, and what is actually pretty exclusive territory for senegalese - what appeared to be a newly-built and paved road was pocked with large pot-holes that required the driver to make dramatic turns and speed changes to negotiate. Mercifully they're never going fast enough for it to be dangerous (so far) but it's get's to be jarring after a while - like riding a roller coaster continuously for a bit too long. I suppose it helps with the digestion. Things got messier as we got closer to the beach house, with ponds of mud, narrow alleways, and a closed of street because of some village gathering. I even thought for a moment we'd get caught in the mud, and imagined myself trying to help dislodge a bus in plastic slippers... But it never came to pass, and we arrived with plenty of daylight still.

THE BEACH
The ocean was, as it always is, beautiful, even with some trash on the beach. The properties are being eaten away by the sea, to the point where at high tide they come up to the walls marking the edge of the house patios. Such is life when building on the ocean. The property has 3 main structures- the big house with 2 floors, several balconies and at least two bathrooms and 5 or so bedrooms of varying sizes. The other is a 2 bay garage with a 2-story patio-topped building with two or more bedrooms and a bathroom. The boys stayed there with Hassan, and I took Elizabeth and the girls to the house. It had a nice sitting room downstairs with one of those moroccan style ceilings with the intricate plaster patterns. I don't actually know if it's moroccan style, but that's where I saw it first. The third building was an open covered patio with 2 sides walled, and leading to an enclosed kitchen and pantry- all within about 30 feet of the ocean. We ate there each time, and it was wonderful to sit at the table and look out over the water, or at the backs of the kids as they sat on the wall looking at the waves

Check it out.

WET CLOTHES
Kids, as the way they are around waves, can't stay well enough alone - so even though I read mine the riot act about how somebody ALWAYS falls in the waves after intending only to get their ankles wet, Iman was the first. Fortunately the water was warm, and the air was warm, so being wet wasn't as bad as it has been in the past in the US. After Maghrib all the kids got wet, until eventually I couldn't see them enough to know if they were safe, and yelled at 'em all to get out. Remember that most of these kids are DARK, and trying to spot a dark-skinned kid in the night in the water with no lights gets tricky. The missus pointed out that "it must be bad when Inayat tells 'em to stop" - since i'm usually the one more relaxed about water.

WALKIN'
Late at night, before bed, we two went for walk on the beach. We started going North, but at high-tide we started to get pinched between the waves and the walls, and so found a nice place on rock and sat for a while, then walked back and went down the other way for a better distance. Even without my glasses on I can see the milky way, which is nice.

Animals, Rain, Jumma Prayers

FRIDAY - 8 Sept - "Animals, Rain, and Jumma"
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SKEETERS
After our first night, Noura and Moby both, with some small degree of pride, pointed out the extent to which they'd gotten eaten alive (even with mosquito nets). Moby counted 18 on one hand. I could only find 16, but he pointed out that one big one was actually three small bites. Noura claims to have 70 on her whole body - so now they have something to compare to my 8 on one finger story from Egypt when I was 8. They made for quite a picture, but were in surprisingly good spirits about it. I figure with Noura, the net wasn't tight enough, and with Moby, since he moves so much during sleep, he put parts of his body against the net, and then the mosquitoes had a field day.

ZOO
While Elizabeth took a nap, we all went to the Senegalese zoo. It was quite different from what we've got, and sad in a way, to a tree-hugger environmentalist like me- but the kids enjoyed it. They thought that the porcupines were horribly cute, counted the alligators hiding in the murky water, and were amazed by the size of some ancient lions. After walking around and seeing most of the animals, we went to a small gazeboed (sp?) area and they all got the Senegalese equivalent of freeze pops and I had a Coke (and a smile).

RAIN
While we were there, it started to rain - REALLY really hard. It's nice though, when it rains in dustry hot countries, because it brings down all the dust, and cools the airs - and I occurred to me it must be really nice for the zoo animals- though unfortunately of little help to those in small covered concrete cages. When the rain lessened, we walked thru a very minor drizzle, all the way down the long straight driveway to the zoo entrance. There was a beautiful picture of the kids walking ahead of us, all in a row down the fresh wet road between the trees- but alas, I'd not brought the camera and so didn't get it.

JUMMA
Sheikh Harun then took Elizabeth and me to to Jumma prayers - and we had to go around all kinds of resultant flooding. Like in Egypt, it appears there's not quite enough rain to have a reasonable drainage system- so the water just collects at the low points, and then burns off in the sun over a few days- but they had to reroute one major road just to get around a 3-foot puddle. The prayer was nice- with some very cool chanting before and after - and a short Arabic-only lecture for the khutba itself. Everbody is very black with white clothing - and I of course, being very white, dressed in black - hat, shirt, pants - except of course my newly-aquired slippers.


CYBERCAFE - CAFE
Hassan, Sheikh Harun's son - who's an interesting and intelligent (and lively) Senegalese/South Carolinian hybrid - took us to the cyber center just a few hundred feet from the school. It's narrow room, with a couple game stations and about 10 computers on a high-speed connection. They allowed us to connect our laptops directly and we got busy, catching up on email, updates, work, etc... While I disdain the idea of needing to be "connected" I have found myself stressed to be disconnected during my work time- on vacation I'll go without the web for weeks- but I'm not on vacation, and so feel very vulnerable to dropping the ball at my job.

Mosquito Bites - lots of 'em


13sep-16sep06 055
Originally uploaded by divb.

Well, this is what happens when you take a deep sleeper who moves all over (and against and beyond the mosquito net on his bed) in africa, which at the same time not applying any bug repellent, allowing a couple into the net, not tucking the net in, and not having a way of keeping them out of the house.

He claims to have 140 or so on his body. I believe him. I'd feel worse if he didn't seem to carry it like a badge of honor. We're working on improving the situation, and some nights he gets no bites (hey, that rhymes).

14 September 2006

Arrival and Heat

THURSDAY - 7 Sept - "Arrival"
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HEAT
We landed at about daybreak in Dakkar, with not quite enough light to see much of anything. It was a bit of an expedition to get us and our bags out, as 2/3 of the passengers were staying on to fly to Johannesburg (sp?), South Africa, and so unusually, we didn't have to wait for everyone - but it made getting out a little more cramped, since most people and their bags stayed. To add to that, there was a rollup stairway, and most of the kids couldn't carry their bags down. So I shuttled back and forth a few times, and we made it down the stairs.

There was a very sick man on his knees at the top of the stairs, with some attendants in white uniforms and a flight attendent there to try and keep people from running into him. I suspect he had AIDS, or something - but he was very thin and clearly very weak.

My first impression upon encountering the air was as it has been in the past in the Middle East; hot, and a certain smell that my wife attributes to burning trash, but I simply associate it with the richness of smells in the air. What was different from my memories of morocco, egypt and saudi, was that it felt thick and wet - presumably because we're in the tail end of the rainy season. More on that the next day.

We boarded one of those big wide low airport busses to take us to the terminal, and went up some tiled steps into the customs area- which was just a big square room with a couple counters. Everyone else seems to have done this many times, and then immediately filled out their forms and made their way out, while Elizabeth sat down and patiently went thru all 7 of ours, noting where we were staying, where we came from, and so on. I go nuts trying to do that kind of stuff, and look forward to when each kid can do it themselves. I took the chance to wander back and forth...

IMPRESSIONS
As in Morocco, there is a mix of old and new. The windows and glass were aluminum, with the typical smooth tile to cover any portion of the concrete structure. There was a uniformed guard who'd opened the outer doors leading to the tarmack, and he locked the doors. Overall the uniforms were shabby - shirt in various states of press and tucking, and I think the one holster I saw on one man's belt was actually empty. Unlike Egypt, they didn't seem to be putting on airs though - "it is what it is" came to mind.

SECURITY
We went past the counter - the guy was missing and showed up a minute later. It occurred to me we could just walk on by. There were no ropes, or particular "channels" to go thru. He took a minute, stamped our passports, kept the sheets, and sent us on our way.

Like JFK, the carts were free - but unlike JFK, many of these carts had wheel issues - which we of course discovered after loading them with 4 big bags. We had to do some shifting, and eventually got all our bags counted and on carts and headed for the exits. There they had a big conveyor belt that went thru a huge x-ray machine - the belt was about 4 feet across. We loaded the stuff up on one end, and some Senegalese agents in military uniforms appeared to be keeping a rough eye on things- but it's not clear that they really were paying attention. I suppose they'd have seen guns in the bags- but not much else. However, this meant lifting and lowering 28 bags- many of them 51 lbs or so - so pretty soon I was sweating again, and bags were everywhere on carts, off carts, in the way, out of the way. We could see Sheikh Harun waiting outside the outer glass, and were waiting for someone to ask for passports or documents or asking for passports- nobody did.

TAXIS
We walked out the door, Sheikh welcomed us, and took us down the sidewalk towards the cabs. Things got chaotic as a number of young men and boys tried to help, and the cabbies vied for permission to take us, and in some cases tried to just grab the bags and load up- we gave up trying to keep track of bags, and just hoped for the best, keeping the important bags close at hand. We loaded up, distributed ourselves, our bags, and our entourage between 4 cabs, and hit the road.

MORE IMPRESSIONS
Overall, I was surprised how much it all reminded me of Egypt and Morocco. Had I more experience on the continent, I imagine it would be the same across the whole of Africa. There are roads and dirt, often crossing over in way's you'd not expect. There are people everywhere, and every kind of conveyance - from donkeys to horses to cars to massive trucks. The traffic is crazy, but here it seems to be slow enough to prevent any catastrophic accidents- and much of a drive is punctuated by slowing down to avoid potholes, or long grooves where the road was cut to trench for a pipe or cable or something like it. The smell is pungent - burning trash, dust, diesel, cooking food (my oldest daughter whispers "fish" several times over my shoulder as I write this). I rode with a man named Shamsuddin, who works at the school and is the Sheikh's cousin. We worked on some basic words, and I found it very difficult to remember any of them... but at least it got the juices flowing.

THE SCHOOL and THE BAGS
We arrived at the school, a nice two story (with finished walled patio roof) and a group of people emerged to help bring the bags into the building while the Sheikh settled up with the cabs. There is a typical heavy metal door, with a short walkway into the front hallway, which on the left opens into a big split level classroom and on the right to a single room that became ours for the visit.

CHAOS
So bags, people, kids and stuff were everywhere. Eventually we brought our bags down to the bedroom for Elizabeth and me, and began to dissassemble the packing to find things we needed immediately. Our room had no storage space - so I used thin rope to create loops from which I could hang most of my things. We have our own bathroom- which interestingly enough, like the others in the building, has a toilet that's missing it's seat. Go figure - i guess it makes sure you don't get too comfortable. The flushing/fill mechanism on the two near the kids room doesn't work, and the doors don't shut properly. All this in a building that is quite nice, with shiny painted white walls, tile floors, and nice touches like crown moulding, plaster patterns around the lights, and nice wood bannisters. It's a bit of a paradox actually.

ICE CREAM & CREATIVE STORAGE
After we'd rested a bit, the Sheikh's son Hassan took me and all the kids (ours and the other 10 or so from the school) a half mile down the road and picked up some ice cream. As is always the case, you have inexpensive local goods mixed with expensive packaged goods and even more expensive imported goods - so the ice cream I picked cost about a dollar - which is a lot for senegal. On the way, we had to keep moving to the side of the road so cars could pass- there's really no clear delineation between pedestrian areas and driving areas- just a lot more dirt the farther from the center of the road you go. Cars are parked fairly randomly, and so many buildings seem to be under construction that piles of dirt, gravel and bricks intrude on the space that might have been a sidewalk- if they had sidwalks, which they don't.

We situated the mosquito nets, got everyone ready for bed, soaked our shirts to keep cool and hit the sack - or something like it.

Put a BUNCH of photos on to flickr....

11 September 2006

WEDNESDAY - 6 Sept - "Departure"

We woke bright and early, after a couple hours of sleep - which is less than we wanted, but better than our trip to Morocco. We called Ali to make sure he was on the way, and he was already in the neighborhood, probably not wanting to wake us up. Lots of bags, in and out, a few last minute things on a checklist (copies of keys to neighbor, shut the shed, etc...) and off we went, the family filling the van and Ali with Maryam the Explorer riding in the cab of the Reefer truck. We stopped at the bank for a final cash injection, and hit the interstate to rush-hour traffic on 85- which while congested, was mercifully brisk.

Unloading at the airport was uneventful, though humorous, with this huge cube track and "Halal International" on the side, and us unloading 28 or so bags (2 big rolling bags, a rollaboard, and a smaller backpack/satchel for each of the seven of us) on the sidewalk. I took some pictures [INSERT PICTURES] of the scene for posterity, and we big Ali farewell. I drove the van to long-term parking, but missed the shuttle by about 60 seconds. I walked the full length of the parking lot hoping to catch up with it, to miss its exit by about ... 60 seconds. C'est la Vie, non? A bit later I was back at the terminal, where Munira and the kids had moved all the bags just inside. Following Rose's advice, we asked if we could check them all internationally right there, rather than switch at JFK, and they said to take everything down to international check-ins - which was of course the next section of the airport. So we did, and I got started with that process, and proceeded to grab the kids and start going back and forth with the bags- thank the good Lord for smooth floors and bags with wheels. A far cry from my memories of travel as a child - where we had lots of big heavy bags, and seemed to have to carry them all the time.
So my plans of getting on a plane without sweating were dashed, as the guys at the counter proved remarkably adept at processing our bags faster than we could get them up there- with 14 51lb (more or less) bags, I didn't want to keep the growing line waiting. We finished there, went thru security which had almost no line, and proceeded to gum that up right off. How do you pass thru the kids if they can't lift their bags on to the conveyor - you could send them first, but then they wouldn't be able to get the stuff off... so it ended up being a bit of a mess, but eventually we all made it through, reconstituted our bags and headed to the gate - which because it was domestic, was back into the main terminal and out to another concourse. What's funny is as I was trying to line up the bags out of the way after the security checkpoint, a guard said we couldn't leave the bags (10 feet away) unattended. So I dragged them back to where they were in everyone's way. Gotta love underpaid TSA flunkies. What they need to do is pay all the porters to be TSA agents, so they could make money from tips, but also keep a "friendly" eye on things, and come across as helpful as well. As it is, most of those folks just come across as drones who enforce a part-line that doesn't make much sense anyway. But that's another story for another time.

So to the gate, hanging for a while, kids to the bathroom, Maryama and Yaseen and I for a walk (he's REALLY eager to get on a plane at this point, and doesn't understand why he can't yet). Back to the gate, and a short trip to cinabon to give Noura her promised Birthday stop - she forgoes the bun for the sticks, and we all gorge on several five-packs. Then I'm back for some hashbrowns for Munira and the kids. We boarded, unable to muster the troops and their bags in the 25 second window they give for "passengers with small children or anyone else needing special assistance" and so end up waiting by the gate for our rows. Munira handled it quite well when I decided to make a bathroom break. She's getting much better at this. We worked our way in - proving to be a bit of a challenge since the kids were each schlepping a rolling bag which is only a bit smaller than the aisle itself, along with another bag- which of course gets caught on the seats and elsewhere. I ended up sitting on my own in an Emergency exit, just behind the others. At that point, I wondered where my cushion was. I have a temperpedic cushion I always travel- and have for 8 years. I've almost lost it many times, and actually lost it once, and immediately bought another- but they cost almost $100 so I even put my phone number on it (and recently had an airport guard call my cell to retrieve it in Oklahoma City!).
Munira remembered it coming off the truck, but not much after that. My thoughts are that maybe it was at security, or in the seating area - but at this point the plane is finishing final boarding. I went to the front of the plane and talked to them, and then out to the gate agent, who said I had 7 minutes. Then I ran- and I don't mean jogged, or trotted, I mean RAN - ran as in $100!!!, you gotta be kidding me! I have to buy another one??! I arrived at the security checkpoint, breathing heavily, reminding myself that I really do need to get into better shape, and explained to the guard what was going on. He walked out to the seating area just outside the place we'd been, and then went down to where he thought we were before. At this point, Munira called my cell to ask where I was, reminding me that I had all our tickets and our passports, and doing her best not to get upset. At this point, I had probably 2 minutes to get back, found that the guard had found nothing, and RAN again back to the gate. Nodded to the agent at the door, who said "good job" and jogged down the gangway and back on to the plane. So now my hopes of getting on my flight without sweating a LOT were dashed. But hey, it beat trying to get on the red-eye++ after Dabney's funeral, and we were on our way.

The flight was uneventful (God, that sounds so cliche - been said a thousand times) - the kids enjoyed it, and during those sorts of things my "I'm glad I'm a Dad" instinct kicks in and I enjoy watching them absorb the new experience. We did a heavy banked turn coming into JFK and Moby thought it was cool and Noura thought it was scary, and we landed. This was the "inaugural" flight of USAirways from Charlotte to JFK, and so they'd never actually done it before- so getting off the plane was interesting. There was no gang-way, so we took the steps, but then we had to go UP the steps coming off the gangway (with our carry-on bags- which in case you hadn't absorbed it by now, were numerous and heavy). Into the terminal (gee, international terminals are much cooler - oreos at the gate, and comfortable chairs) and out and down and around to find the airtrain - then up and onto the train and into terminal C or was it 4? where most of the stuff happens. We found the Prayer room (the label says "multi denominational" room, and is next to a catholic room, some other kind of christian chapel, and an synagogue, so the room had clearly been taken over by Muslims, with angled carpets, a mimbar (steps, cover, and all) a quibla, shoe area, shelves, etc... I wonder what the story behind the name not changing was. At one point I was vacuuming, and this couple and their kids walked in - she telling him "it says multi-denominational" and me telling them to take their shoes off if they were going to walk on the carpet. My tone was strong enough that they turned around and walked out. It's always amazed me how obvlivious folks are to things. I mean, here's a room with HUGE PICTURES of Mecca and Medina, a shoe-rack, a woman with a scarf on, and a prayer niche - and they waltz in with their shoes on. I wouldn't walk into a church or a synagogue, or any place that appeared holy or sacred without some sense of awareness of my environment. If anyone wants to pray, that's fine - but have the decency to think about the hundreds of people who will put their forheads and noses against that carpet... but there I go again.

The kids had a romp, and we returned to the room a few times, eventually to pray Thuhr and Asr before our flight. We spent the afternoon in the terminal, getting some food, walking around, letting the kids nap. Eventually we were able to check in, which went pretty well, while the floor agent teased the guy at the computer saying, "I wouldn't have given you such a hard time if you'd told me you were checking in a family of SEVEN!" We went down to security, which only shortly before had been almost vacant, and suddenly it was crowded. We made for an interesting picture, the tall guy with the hat in the lead, followed by 5 kids in blue shirts, followed by the woman in the scarf. Security was the typical fiasco, now with them telling everyone to not have any drinks, but with no way to really check. I suppose maybe you can see a bottle thru the x-rays, but I have my doubts. "Excuse me sir, do you have any liquid explosives in your bags?" "Why yes I do." "Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to dump them in the trash...". I mean, really. If you were up to no good, would you answer the question, or obey the rule- or even try such a thing with the new rules in place? I wonder if Jello counts as a liquid. It's only solid when it's cold. What's funny is that you pick up your duty-free alcohol and perfume at the gate- so let's not let security ever interfere with making real money. It's one thing to deprive me of my mountain dew on the flight, but let's not keep Mr. Sampson away from his Johnny Walker. Although with Mountain Dew running 3 bucks a pop (so to speak) at JFK, it's good money!

So we're muddling thru security (I'm wondering if I should write this in past or present tense, and can't seem to make up my mind) , having not thought up a better way of not repeating the mess in Charlotte - and next thing I know they've taken a bag to inspect, and Noura is sobbing and in tears. They've found the small gerber multi-tool (no, not the ones you are all used to- these are SMALL, about 2-3 inches long) that I'd given her a year or so back. It fold out to have scissors (with blades about an inch, but pointed) and includes some other tools. She'd packed it in with her string bracelet klutz set, and they found it. She was devastated, telling the agent she was sorry, telling me she was sorry (since it was a gift for her) and probably thinking she was about to be shipped off to the gulag. The agent was nice, explaining that it came with the kit, and so it wasn't her fault, and in typical Noura/Munira fashion, she said "no, I put it in there with it" - way to give up a gimmme!! It was too funny, and we tried to calm her down. I hoped he'd just give it back - I mean the day you can hijack an international flight with a pair of folding scissors is the day that civilization NEEDS to end - but no dice. She was devastated, and I tried to explain to her that they cost all of about 2.5 Mountain Dews at JFK, and I'd bring her another one (having found another one sitting around somewhere, and for some reason not packing it). I asked the agent if I could give it to him, rather than have them throw it away (giving my aversion to wasted) and he said they get dozens a day. This leads me to believe that every TSA agent in the country has the best collection of multi-tools around. I mean, I sure as heck wouldn't throw them away if I could get away with it - what a waste!! They should let you pay $1 to take a polaroid of your tool, and then have a station on the other end where you can show the picture and pick up one there that looks like it... but such solutions require a creativity that such agencies lack. The reason we are secure is because terrorism is really not a threat. The reason we are not secure is because determined terrorists (of which there are really almost none) will be more creative and imaginative then big government agencies.

As we were regrouping, this time out of the way of the stream of people, the agent came up to me and explained that because the folks at the x-rays were new, and in need of training, they would use this set of scissors to help train them, and not throw them away. Now this presented me with an interesting and humorous paradox. I was happy they weren't wasted, but not at all happy that now the security folks would be more senstivie to harmless gerber scissors (again, these were not the tools that have a foldout knife - they were much smaller, and didn't even include pliers). So was the NOT wasting of those going to be the cause of MORE waste and annoyance in the future? Sigh... If I liked to talk even more trash I'd go into how we could take apart our laptops and use the variuos parts of it to make some pretty scary shanks, but I'll save that for another rant. How something that looks like shampoo could be potentially more dangerious than something that looks like a Lithium Ion or Nickel-metal hydride laptop battery Cremains a mystery to me. To digress a little, I had this weird thought when all the news was coming in from the UK about these "liquid explosives". For the record, everyone should know that YEARS ago, I made a comment that I've repeated many times that Code Red Mountain Dew looks a lot like Gasoline. Now I never actually put them in a jar side by side, but thought about it a few times. For those of you who've never messed with gasoline- it's scary stuff. Forget liquid explosives - just think about plain 'ol gasoline. If you don't doubt the danger there, pour a gallon of it onto a pile of wood, stand back, and throw a match (really, stand back... way back). It's not like in the movies where the fire creeps along the liquid- it'll catch much faster than you could run. So I'm off on a tangent again- what I though of when this started happening was, that it would be funny if some guy who owned a store that sold drinks in the airport had made some anonymous calls to get the government worked up about liquids - sales would go up a bit inside terminals. I don't actually think anything of the sort happened, but grin a little over the possibilities. Just wait until the next scare has them using laptops as bombs... then we'll have a reall mess on our hands. What we really need are two different airline systems. Those who like high security and all the inconvenience, and those who are not really worried about it (gee, I wonder where I fall?) - with the explicit agreement that any plane going off course will be summarily shot down if it presents a threat. I'd be down with that! But seriously, not enough imagination going around for that sort of thing...

Well, this has turned into quite a rant already... so let's finish the trip story. For starts, South African Airlines is way cool - at least the flight we were on. Lots of overhead space, screens on the back of all seats with unlimited movies and such and a wide selection, and free headphones. I gave up on sleeping much, and ended up watching 3 movies. We were able to shift our seats so I could sit next to Noura, and one row back we had 5 seats in a row. Munira did well handling all the other kids- and I felt guity - but not too much because small people are a LOT more comfortabl on these sorts of trips. To give you an idea of what it's like- I can't wash my face in the sink because when i lean forward, my backside hits the wall, and my forhead hits the mirror- there's now way to get my face anywhere near the sink. It's actually sort of funny, after the fact - but was a bit frustrating then. How do you spit in the sink when you brush your teeth if you can't get within 2 feet of it? Yeah, there's always the toilet, but really...

But now it's gone past midnight, and it's on to Thursday, which is the day we arrived.